There is something truly inspiring about getting close enough to wildlife for intimate wildlife portrait photography. But where is the best place to go, and how easy is it? You could go on a photo safari to one of the numerous private game reserves in southern Africa. They are ideal for close photographic encounters with the Big Five and other charismatic wild animals. However, they come with a significant price tag, and the experience may sometimes be a bit contrived. In one private reserve I encountered a dead antelope secured with wire in a tree as bait for leopards. Unwitting tourists who “happened to be passing” would get great photos. They would also be missing out on the real thing. So where to go for wildlife portrait photography?
There are many great national parks in eastern and southern Africa
For example, the Maasia Mara in Kenya, the Serengeti in Tanzania and Etosha National Park in Namibia. These are great places to photograph wild animals in their natural surroundings. National parks are more affordable than private game reserves, but they tend to be overcrowded in the high season. This is usually the dry season, when the animals are more visible because the grass is short and they concentrate round the waterholes. It is also the best season for photography.
However, the setup in popular national parks can also sometimes be rather contrived. The floodlit waterholes close the lodges and campsites in Etosha make it possible to observe large numbers of animals after dark while sipping your wine. But it’s hardly a natural experience, and the light is dreadful for photography. So not great for good wildlife portrait photography.
Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda is great for wildlife portrait photography
Murchison Falls doesn’t have the allure of the more well-known African national parks. Even in Uganda, safari tourists tend to go to Queen Elizabeth Park instead (if they are not too focused on the gorillas in Bwindi). Perhaps this is a legacy of occupation of Murchison Falls by rebels in the 1990s. But since their defeat more than 10 years ago, Murchison Falls has gradually recovered. It is now an ideal destination for wildlife photography.
Situated about 280km north of the capital Kampala, it’s an easy 4-hour drive on excellent and mainly tarred roads, and it has very pleasant lodges. Paraa Safari Lodge is comfortable and conveniently situated close to the Park headquarters, where you can pick up a ranger to guide you to the best wildlife locations. Pakuba Safari Lodge is situated on the White Nile. It is further from the ranger’s post, but more intimate than Paraa.
Although the Park is large (almost 4000 square kilometers/1540 square miles), most animals conveniently hang out in the delta. This is where the Victoria Nile flows into Lake Albert and then out again as the White Nile, on its course to Egypt and the Mediterranean. The delta is a popular location for bird lovers, and the chances are you will be able to get shots of the rare shoe-billed stork.
The delta is north of the Victoria Nile, and the ferry only runs from sunrise to sunset. So if you want a head start to the delta to catch the ideal light after dawn, or you want to linger until sunset, then you should stay in one of the lodges to the north (Paraa or Pakuba).
Photographing wildlife on a cruise to the Falls
Further to the east on the Victoria Nile are the eponymous Murchison Falls. The broad and tranquil river is forced through a narrow gorge and then plunges more than 100 meters before continuing its course to the delta and Lake Albert. The boat trip from Paraa up the Nile to the Falls provides great opportunities for wildlife portrait photography. There are plenty of elephants, African fish eagles, hippos, and the biggest crocodile population in Uganda. All at close range, as the boat zig-zags from bank to bank to give you the best photo opportunities.
It’s also a great chance to get spectacular shots of the falls from just downstream. You can also leave the boat and climb the slippery rocks to the top of the Falls.
Don’t miss the photogenic wildlife in the delta
There are lots of photogenic animals in Murchison and it’s relatively easy to get close and take photos. This is ideal for wildlife portrait photography. Not only on the cruise to the Falls, but also in the delta. My favourites are the hartebeest with their quizzical expressions, the stately giraffes, the sometimes deceptively friendly looking lions, and the majestic elephants. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a leopard.
However, a close-up photo isn’t necessarily an intimate portrait, or even a decent photo. The key, apart from the necessary photographic skills, is patience: waiting for the right pose. This can take a while, as sleeping lions or grazing hartebeest may take a long time to look up. Most tourists are in a hurry. They don’t notice the photogenic hartebeest, rushing past them in their quest for the Big Five. And when they encounter lions at the roadside they stop, snap a few shots, and then rush on in search of elephants. It’s surprising how many tourists don’t look directly at the animals at all. They turn their backs to them to make selfies, with the animals as background décor. If that’s what they’re into, then that’s OK too, but for wildlife portrait photography you need to wait until the animal strikes a suitable pose and, ideally, makes eye contact.
Patience is the secret for good wildlife portrait photography
Lions are relatively abundant in the delta. According to the Uganda Wildlife Conservation Society there were 128 lions on the north bank of the river in 2013. Most of these would be in the delta area. They are used to vehicles and it is not uncommon to find them relaxing at the roadside. During the daytime, when the light is good they are usually sleeping. Getting the right shot often means waiting patiently until one of them wakes up and strikes a pose. For me eye contact, whatever it might mean to the animal, is an important aspect of a good portrait. It signals something communicated. Or so it seems.
Sometimes patience is stretched, especially if you have limited time
One evening we were driving slowly through a sparsely wooded part of the delta. We had been doing this for a couple of days round dusk and dawn, in search of leopards. They tend to be shy, and are rarely seen. The sun had set and it was getting too dark for photos. We were about to turn back when the ranger I was travelling with noticed a leopard high up in a tree right next to the road. In the growing twilight we could just make out an antelope wedged between the branches. We stopped and I tried, unsuccessfully, to take some photos through te gloom. The leopard, disturbed by our proximity, descended from the tree and vanished.
The following morning before dawn we returned to the tree but there was no sign of the leopard. We spent several hours patrolling the surrounding area, but without luck. The same in the evening. The ranger was convinced that the leopard was still in the vicinity, so we returned the next morning and spent several hours examining the trees along the track. Suddenly the ranger spotted the tail of the otherwise hidden leopard hanging down from between the branches high in a tree. We stopped the car and I adjusted my camera settings and focused on where I thought it would come into view sooner or later.
After about half an hour’s wait, it suddenly descended from the tree, pausing for a few seconds to make eye contact with us, before disappearing into the surrounding bushes. Luckily I had my finger on the shutter button.